Tuesday, May 30, 2006

Photos! Quebec, Trois Rivières, road trip, and more!

Photos!
From most to least recent... road trip photos are at the bottom... See previous posts for details and stories accompanying the photos! (the electronic quality ain't great, so click for an enlarged shot)

These two photos are both in Trois Rivières-- above is 'centre-ville', a quaint one-way which houses the city's fine selection of pubs and clubs. The other photo is a view of the St. Lawrence River along the waterfront of 'centre-ville'.




These two photos are of 'Vieux Quebec'-- above is 'lower' old Quebec (basse-ville), below is 'upper' old Quebec (haute-ville).




At left is the 'Citadelle' which we strolled around while in Quebec city. Above is the 'Notre Dame des Victoires' in 'basse-ville' (where we went to Sunday service... and I almost ate the cracker)













Below are two photos at les chutes Montmorency... the right one was taken after we stood in the bottom of the waterfall (we were soaked... which precipitated 'The most grave crime of the trip...'). People are, from left-to-right, Terry, Nicole, Nadine, Theresa, and me.


Chateau Frontenac at day and at night. Que c'est beau!

Me in front of 'Saint Alexandre Pub'-- where we'd gone the night before (over 200 types of beer)-- I have a photo just like this, taken when I was in Quebec in grade 6-- I vowed then to return to try the fine beers, and I did!



Some of the crew outside of Alicia's apartment near Laval Université in Quebec city, just waiting for the taxis to head downtown-- We had 20 of us in total (all of whom packed into her cozy apartment later that night).






Back chez nous in our rez at Trois Rivières. Here we're getting ready for a Friday night 'caveman' themed costume party.
















Road Trip Photos... in no particular order...

Photo taken at Theresa's Aunt Shelly's place, around the firepit, after the Flames game (that I went to while Theresa, Adham, and co. were at Melrose on the Red Mile)
One of our random photo stops in the prairies. An abandoned farm in Saskatchewan.


Another couple random photo stops in Ontario, en route to Wawa (where we took in the 7th series game that the Flames lost). The random shoe was on the side of the road, while most of the trees (at left) had burned in a forest fire.















Another random photo stop, on the highway running along the Ottawa river en route to Montréal (it's hard to see, but there are streaks of sunlight in the distance).

Ah Sudbury. Note the smokestacks at left, with the world's biggest nickel (Sudbury has Canada's largest nickel industry). And, note the distraught shopping cart in an industrial wastefield near downtown Sudbury.













Kakabeka falls, just west of Thunder Bay, where we stopped with André, the hitchhiker we had picked up. (the falls are especially spectacular in the winter when they freeze)


Three shots of the dude. First, at Lake Louise. Second, after just passing the Ontario/Manitoba border. Third, and this reminds me of a t-shirt I once had with two bears hovering over top of sleeping bags saying '... And this is what we call packed lunch', Adham sleeping in Algonquin Park as Theresa and I prepared to depart for our canoe adventure.




















We stayed in Moosimin (just west of the Saskatchewan/Manitoba border) from about 3am to 6am (attempting to sleep in the Trooper). When we got going, I decided to drive around and explore a bit-- this was a quaint prairie hospital we came to.


Just west of Brandon, Manitoba, is a small town called Alexander. Naturally I drove through, and Theresa took a picture of me with the 'Alexander Grain Elevator' (there was also a school and corner store by the same name-- I could probably trump the mayor with my name)


A night photo I took in Regina at the provincial legislature.

Cars streaking by through the prairies as we pause to enjoy the sunset (just east of Swift Current)


A photo of the rocky mountains a couple hours east of Golden (still in BC). Note the vast swathes of red, yellow, and black trees decimated by the mountain pine beetle.

A couple shots taken while driving towards Golden, BC (where we camped our first night). The photo at right was taken in near darkness at Roger's Pass (shutter speed ~12 seconds, as trucks raced by)

Monday, May 22, 2006

Days 18-25: The 'Unity Mobile' goes to church, gets stuck in 2 feet of mud, and is the scene of a grave crime.

The Trooper-- an affectionate term for the vehicle that started the Odyssey from Vancouver to Montréal-- was officially renamed the 'Unity Mobile' this week, the Canadian Associated Press has learned. For the sake of the country, the honorable Prime Minister Stephen Harper has agreed to pay gas costs (and ignore carbon dioxide emissions... which his government is already doing), while the 'Unity Mobile' traverses Quebec, flying the Canadian and Quebecois flags, over the next few weeks.

In a statement, the mighty Harper offered this, "I am pleased to announce, in cooperation with my good friend Jean Charest, that we will be immediately addressing Quebec's fiscal imbalance, and, more importantly, move to strengthen national unity by sponsoring the 'Unity Mobile'." Asked by one of the conservative-friendly reporters (the only type he'll take questions from) whether such sponsorship resembles the ill-fated Liberal Sponsorship Program, Harper noted, "In fact, we are moving toward a decentralized federalism where exemplary citizens, rather than mafia-esque bureaucrats like Chuck Guité, can lead the push for national unity, from coast to coast to coast."

Ah Harper. Good fella, he is.

Anyway, the past week has been just swell. Class is grand, je suis toujours en retard, I'm not working very hard, and I'm learning beaucoup de français (so I say).

I'm also taking in as much Quebec culture as I can-- helped by a fabulous mediathéque at the Université du Quebec à Trois Rivières (UQTR) which has all the Quebec movies/documentaries/pop culture I could possibly want. A couple notables so far, Les Invasions Barbaires (The Barbarian Invasions-- Denis Arcayd's award winner... a comment on life, death, and everything inbetween) and C.R.A.Z.Y. (a teenage angst film), two of the most celebrated films to come out of Quebec's movie industry in the past 10 years, were first-rate.

While in la ville de Quebec on a roadtrip last weekend, I spent some time at the Musée de la Civilisation which provided some fine insight into Quebec's culture and history, helping me realize how little I knew (and how much I had forgotten to learn and learned to forget way back in Socials 9/10). Like the Seven Year's War, which culminated in the Battle of the Plains of Abraham in 1759 in which the British took Quebec City from the French by catching them off guard when the Brits climbed near-impossibly steep cliffs, ultimately turning 'New France' into Lower Canada. Although it was hardly interesting in Socials 9/10-- perhaps because the curriculum didn't make the obvious link to present day-- it's relevance to today's 'Quebec identity' and to the sovereignty cause cannot be understated. I mean, in the Quebec school curriculum, it's called 'The Conquest'. But it's good to hear that the sovereignty cause is weakening as of late. I won't take credit just yet.

But yep, la ville de Quebec was outstanding-- after cruising the town, checking out the club scene (not Montréal, but still solid... excellent live music), drinking 2 (Hoegaarden-- a white Belgian beer with a peculiar aftertaste, served in a 50 oz mug, and St-Amboise Dark, a fine Montréal brew) of the 200 types of beer at St. Alexandre's Pub (a pub which I'd vowed to return to when I first came in Quebec with my french immersion class in grade 6), and finding the best poutine so far at Ashton's (a popular poutine chain), 19 of us returned to a friend's apartment close to université Laval 15 minutes outside of vieux-Quebec to crash for the night (it was cozy, not cramped).

The following day, our crew of four cruised around town, first going to a Catholic church service en français in North America's oldest stone church (Notre Dame des Victoires, située en basse-ville de vieux-Quebec-- it was here that, as I reached for the cracker, I was abruptly reminded that only full-fledged Catholics could mange le corps de Christ), strolling through the Citadelle, the Plains of Abraham, taking in the renowned (and free) Musée des Beaux Arts, meandering past the 'National Parliament buildings' (a title which, along with the boldly named 'prémier ministre' and 'national assembly', have riled a few anglophone nationalists over the years), ate some fine french bread/mayonnaise/smoked-gouda (while watching our hometown Vancouver Giants battle leur équipe-- les Quebec Ramparts-- in the Memorial Cup hockey tournament), before heading over to see les chutes Montmorency-- a spectacular 83m waterfalls just outside of la ville. It was here that, after hiking to the top and then descending into the heavy mist of the pounding water (leaving us thoroughly soaked), we committed perhaps the most grave crime of the trip thus far.

We returned to the visitor's centre around 7:15pm, cold and wet, to discover that it-- and it's heated washrooms-- were closed. And so, the five of us (Theresa-- of road trip fame-- had joined us late in the day) returned to the car, searched for dry clothes, and proceeded to change. Now, while us two guys were able to do so discretely, it seems the girls weren't so shy. In fact, they were sheer exhibitionists-- as a tourist Indian family left the parking lot, the father's mouth dropped as their mini-van turned the corner around the other side of the 'Unity Mobile'-- the changeroom-- while the mother in the passenger seat turned to cover her children's eyes (it was too late, the damage had been done to les petits). And before the semi-nude 'strippers of Montmorency' could react, a school bus (full of teenagers and parent supervisors) rounded the corner as well. It was absolutely hysterical.

From there, the drive back to Trois Rivières was relatively uneventful. Except for the second-most-heart-pounding-moment-of-the-odyssey (note that the first was when Adham opened the window-- with the Calgary Flames car flag falling onto the Trans Canada-- as we drove out of Thunder Bay). Let me begin. It seems that cars with wet people inside tend to fog up. So, in addition to the car heater, I opened the window as we drove Hwy 40 west-- and accidentally opened the rear one as well. Unbeknownst to me (I was distracted by neighbouring cars and yelling from the back seat-- "Close the window!"), Terry (a U-of-T poli-sci/terrorism student, and one very funny guy) reached out to grab the flag, and somehow I closed the window on one of his hands (hearing his yelps of pain, I opened it, looked back to see there was no flag, and instinctively pulled over to the side of the busy freeway in sheer panic). He had fortunately pulled it in just in time, but it was one damn close call for national unity (again, my hands remained clammy and my heart continued racing for 30 minutes later).

A few notable observations from the weekend-- les filles Quebecois sont très belles (my Newfie roommate and I can't figure out where they put the ugly ones), the Quebec tipping system is sheer madness (the belle bartender demanded that I give her a tip for my $8 50 oz beer, because apparently in Quebec, tips aren't included with drinks... so I did, but not much of one (75 cents), so she ignored me when I returned for the second beer), Quebec cab drivers are crazy (ok, so most are elsewhere too-- ah, generalizations-- but the one we had started taking pictures of some of the ladies in our cab with his camera phone-- while driving-- exclaiming 'You're on candid camera!' in broken english, and swerving skillfully through the traffic), Quebec is-- at least currently-- experiencing a Jack Johnson obsession (every pub/café/restaurant that I went to that weekend played him, even the Irish ones; but, and it's not just his music, it's surprising how much background music in Quebec stores/restaurants/gyms/etc is english-- despite some fine francophone talent, it seems that the tunes of Kelly Clarkson and the like dominate the airwaves), there's little or no visible homelessness in vieux-Quebec (and, aside from the guy sitting on the edge of the wall encircling vieux-Quebec, dangling a cup for money 60 feet below, there are few mendiants on the streets) , there's nothing better than a good french bakery (think piping-hot croissants), Quebec roads are the worst so far in Canada (though Saskatchewan was pretty bad, and I have a feeling that when I stray from the Trans Canada on the way back through there, it might take first prize), vieux-Quebec has some seriously steep hills, and Quebec traffic lights and driving patterns are way, way different from anywhere else in Canada (I've unknowingly run a red light, and also have turned into oncoming traffic... all in good fun, really).

Back in Trois Rivières, rez life has mellowed a bit-- seems that 5 weeks of straight partying can't be maintained-- and out of that have come some interesting conversations. Seems like most of the people in this program are either young Liberals, young journalists, liberal young journalists, some other arts major, or miscellaneous-- like me-- which makes for lots of political talk around the Saturday Globe and Mail (one of my anglophone indulgences), from Canadian politics (one roommate is aiming to work in the Liberal bureaucracy-- he's a 'Chretienite', so they say, who was furious with how Martin called an open inquiry into the sponsorship scandal), to business and international politics (say, Montenegro's recently achieved independence from Serbia... or Canada's lack of peacekeepers abroad-- beyond the Afghanstan 'peacekeeping mission'). And of course, the rez crew plays cards, almost continuously-- whether it's mindless games of 'Snap', or drinking games where you invent rules as you go along.

In other happenings at Trois Rivières, my 'community activity' (one of les ateliers du program) at the seniors residence is swell-- it's not a very inspiring place, so it's pretty easy to spice of their lives as le jeune qui vient de Columbie-Britannique. Plus for me, it's a great challenge for my french (it seems nothing's tougher than trying to communicate with people whose hearing is bad in your second language). One of the great ironies is the amount of smoking that goes on inside the place, while those in the worst shape hold on for dear life breathing through respirators (or smoke themselves)-- but as of June 1, when a smoking ban in all public places in Quebec goes into effect, that should stop (it's going to be a turbulent change, given that smoking's seemingly so accepted socially). La fille who was 'supervising' me at the seniors residence was a high school student who, while we exchanged english/french slag terms, asked me what 'Who's your daddy' means (in a thickly accented français), necessitating a challenging reply en français detailing the sport/street/sexual/endless connotations.

Le canotage is good too. After spending the first week on dryland training, focussed on core strength, with the 15-19 year old group (who marvelled-- and snickered in incomprehensible slang-- about the 'anglo'), today I got on the water in a racing river kayak (what I'll be in for the next few weeks). And, it seems, since the canoe incident in Algonquin Park, I haven't had much boat luck. After 10 minutes of wobbly paddling, in what is surely tippier than any ocean kayak/canoe/rowing shell, I rolled into the cold, cold, cold, cold, cold river water. As I apologized profusely in chattering français, the coach reassured me that nearly everyone rolls in their first few times out-- so I pulled myself into the coachboat, looked around to see the jeunes snickering at the soggy 'anglo', emptied my boat of water, and hopped back in... paddling upstream, then downstream, then tipping again, then returning to the boathouse in a shivering state under the threatening clouds. Bottom line: I don't want to tip again (it ain't much fun once the novelty wears off), so, before Thursday (the next practice-- 4 times per week, 1.5 hours/practice), I'm making a point of upping my core-strength workouts and spending lots of time balancing on an exercise ball.

And there've been some random adventures around Trois Rivières too, of course. One night while exploring around town with Theresa and her two roommates, after driving to the east side of Trois Rivières (the town is divided by the Mauricie river, which splits into three-- hence Trois Rivières-- parts before entering the St. Lawrence) to check out Le Cap de Notre Dame (a spectacular riverside church where Pope John Paul had made a pilgrimage) and grab some ice cream (wow, my first experience with flavoured soft-serve icecream-- it was terrific), we went exploring on an island separating the two sides of Trois Rivières-- walking along the St. Lawrence, playing on the jungle gym, teaching Theresa to drive standard (a success-- up to second gear), and then driving the island forest-- which was really a swamp-- before getting the 'Unity Mobile' (well equiped with fine Finnish Nokian mud tires) stuck in 2 feet of soft mud. Anyway, to summarize the following few hours, we made good use of the firewood that I had bought in Golden, BC, laying it down to form a platform, and, with the three girls pushing at the back (hey, I was the only one proficient in driving standard... still, it was kinda funny), we ultimately got it out and onto more solid ground (and, at that point, around 9:30pm, went out for a fine night au centre-ville where I bought the crew drinks for their fine efforts). From what I hear from Theresa, the night was the most fun the girls had had so far in Trois Rivières, so, aside from some mud, it can't have been that unpleasant (though at one point in the push to get the 'Unity Mobile' unstuck, I definitely had to break out some team-building skills to keep them from giving up).

Keeping up with the local newspapers, La Nouvellette and Le Devoir, Kyoto/Global Warming (and our government's pullout/program cuts and Bonn no-show) has dominated front-page news and editorial headlines everyday for the past two weeks-- it's a BIG deal here in Quebec, and, I think in much of Canada (though it doesn't seem to be hurting the prospects of a Conservative majority--
http://www.angus-reid.com/polls/index.cfm/fuseaction/viewItem/itemID/11983). As well, Michëlle Jean's (Canada's Governer General) visit to Haiti last week received a fair bit of press-- as I discovered talking to a Haitian woman working at the UQTR athletics store (who, like Jean, looks half her age), Quebec has a significant Haitian community (especially Montréal), many of whom are incredibly proud of Jean (the woman thought that western Canadians had disapproved of the appointment, but I bet most Canadians are pretty pleased with her-- Paul Martin's greatest legacy, some might say).

And my 8 rolls of photos from the past 26 days are being developed at Costco (damn, c'est très chère dans la belle province, $5/roll at Costco, compared with less than $3 au Columbie-Britannique), so I'll be posting some the the finest photos of the trip so far in the next few days-- including some (hopefully) outstanding night photos from vieux-Quebec.

Until then...

Sunday, May 14, 2006

Days 11-17: Drinking in class (sanctioned and paid for by our government), and other adventures in Trois Rivières...

Make that: "Getting drunk in class (sanctioned and paid for by the government)." Yep, things are progressing well here in the fine ville de Trois Rivières. Between les filles, la bière, and le hockey, there's more than enough to keep one busy.

You see, one the the perks of being in an advanced class (somehow I pulled off a damn good mark on the placement-test last Monday, meaning that I'm in a class for fluent students who want to 'perfect' leur français, as oppose to just learn it-- my goal), is that we went on a field trip with our professor to the local brasserie (brewery) for a field trip. And before you knew it, they were handing out pitcher-by-pitcher of the finest local beer to each table-- there was the pale bière with a hint of peach, the plus noire bière with a hint of barley, and the noire bière with a hint of caramel-- and by the end, some of the lightweights in the class were, admittedly, pretty drunk (at this, 9:30am in the morning).

This culture-- Quebec-- seems to be one of excess. Which, given the catholic heritage, is terrifically ironic-- but I suppose you need something for confession. Between the sex shops and strip clubs adorning Montréal's finest streets (with tempting sihlouettes in the windows and well dressed men inviting passerbys to come in), a nightlife that never ends (no, it's not just Montréal-- a few of us were in downtown Trois Rivières last night-- a city of just over 100,000-- and the city was hopping until 4am), and the alcohol (plus, of course, illegal drugs), you could commit pretty much every sin imaginable in la belle province.


And yet, as a rough looking black guy, who owns a liquidation shop near the busy corner of St. Laurent and St. Catherine's in Montréal (a shop epitomizing sketchy, selling used clothing-- all of which, as Adham said, looks like it was stolen-- and which was adorned with broken class, de-limbed manequins, pipes emerging from the ceilings, and a cracked tile/cement floor... still, it had a character, a certain je ne sais quoi that works in Montréal), told me as we talked last Sunday, Montréal is incredibly "slow" compared to Vancouver and Toronto-- whether it's business, politics, or just everyday stuff, life revolves around the partylife, and not much happens otherwise. Still, he said that much has improved in the past 10 years since 'the little guy from Shawinigan', Jean Chrétien, made it a priority to infuse federal money into Montréal in order to attract businesses. We talked for a while-- amazing where the most interesting conversations may come from-- about the distinctly european feel of Montréal (wow, it makes you realize how important government/NGO produced cigarette smoking shame is-- in Quebec, smoking looks cool in a way that it never could in BC-- and, it seems, every other person smokes, inside/outside/anywhere), how, despite the ethic diversity comparable to Toronto or Vancouver, people in Montréal seem to embrace the european culture, rather than cling to their own, how progressive some of Montréal's ideas are (complete recycling bins on nearly each street corner, complete two way bike lanes on several main streets-- biking is HUGE in Quebec), and how prostitution, he said, was important economically for drawing people into the city (which is why, apparently, police turn a blind eye to it).

And so last Sunday in Montréal we said our goodbyes as a trio, Adham, having just got his first piercing (eyebrow), was sticking around until flying back to Vancouver on Friday, while Theresa and I were off for the start of the Ecole Internationale de Français at the Université de Quebec à Trois Rivières (UQTR-- www.uqtr.ca).

Yes, the past week, as the opening anecdote aluded, has been fun. Seems that I was lucky to find myself in the main party rez apartment on campus (y'know, the one that others refer to almost mythically)-- this is going to be my only rez experience, after all, so I'm glad it's a good one-- we've had upwards of 20 people in our apartment for most nights throughout the past week (and our collection of beer bottles at last count was at 150-- we'll see if we can hit 1000 by the end of the program). It's a fine life-- though not one I'd want to live while studying, cause really, there's no hoping of any studying getting done in a party rez (even if you escape to your room). Our crew includes a Newfie, a Torontonian, a couple guys from Vancouver, and a city boy from Saskatchewan (an odd paradox)-- yep, it's an eclectically Canadian mix.

The town of Trois Rivières is a good one too. Although I had the impression that it was small, it's actually a decent sized town, one of the biggest behind Montréal and Quebec city, and the third oldest town in North America, placed at the intersection of the St. Lawrence and Maurice Rivers, about 90 minutes, in either direction, between Montreal and Quebec city. The core part of the city is the charming vieux-Trois Rivières in centre-ville (a reasonably small area of ~4 blocks radius), where the heritage of the past is rich and the nightlife of the present takes shape.
Beyond Canada, Trois Rivières is known for that kid. Y'know, the fat kid. Y'know, the fat kid that did the Star Wars dance... which was uploaded by over 2 million people worldwide causing him endless embarrassment and grief which forced him to seek extensive counselling (though not before worldwide attention). Yes, that kid. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Star_wars_kid

On a lighter note, the athletics at UQTR are extraordinary-- workout gym/field/pool are of a quality that SFU could only dream of. Which is swell, because I'm working out a lot while I'm here-- training for the fall rowing season, and getting ready to start le canotage with the local team (seems that the coach never understood me when I called 2 months ago to ask about rowing-- aviron means 'paddling' (so it can mean kayaking/canoeing/rowing), so when I asked if I could train with the equipe d'aviron, he naturally said yes-- rowing, it seems, is not a francophone sport at all (Montreal is the only place in the province where you can do it). Bottom line, I'm training with the local canoe team for the next 4 weeks, which, though not rowing, should be a fine experience nonetheless. Between all that, plus soccer/hockey/basketball/ultimate games organized by the program, you keep moving when you're here.

Although I haven't gotten too involved with the local politics yet-- still not being fully comfortable with french yields a barrier unimaginable en anglais-- reading the francophone Le Devoir (www.ledevoir.com) and Le Nouvellette, noting that the last name of the Trois Rivieres mayor is Levesque (maybe just a coincidence, but it couldn't hurt politically), plus seeing that the Gomery reports still remain on display in bookstores, the whole nationalism/sovereignty thing is still an issue-- this week's top stories were the decisions of Lucien Bouchard not to re-enter politics and the drop in popularity of André Boisclair (the gay, formerly-cocaine-using leader of the Parti Quebecois, which, while currently out of power, is well ahead in the poles of Jean Charest's governing provincial Liberals). Drug gangs (namely the Hells As) have also been prominant in the news-- like BC, they're a dominant force here (throughout Quebec, but especially in Trois Rivières), driving the drug trade. A major ringleader and his lawyer were arrested this week.

Speaking of which, on the topic of Angels and National Identity, while cruising around town and the local mall with the rez crew (we're sooo easy to pick off-- the Anglophone Angels, a fearful francophone might quip), I found some Canada and Quebec car flags at dollarama for $1 each. Since I'm a proud nationalist (though from BC), and since car flags have played a key role in the odyssey so far (note Calgary Flames flag flown from Calgary to Thunder Bay, a Finland flag in Thunder Bay, then an Ottawa flag from Ottawa through to Montreal), I decided that uniting Quebeckers begins one car at a time. I put the Canada flag on the right side (of course), and the Quebec flag on the left (still 'right', I mean, why should Quebeckers have to choose between two identities?-- essentially the choice the referendum forces upon them), and we drove on into the horizon. There have definitely been stares so far-- whether it's one flag or the other, or the BC license plates, that does it, I just don't know. And then there was Saturday morning, when I woke to see that the Canada flag had been snapped off, leaving the poor white remnant of the mount. Yes, it was a fierce act of terrorism, comparable with the burning of synagogues in Toronto over the past few years. But, like any courageous hero, I didn't back down-- I returned to dollarama and purchased another flag-- though I won't be leaving the flags up when I'm not driving (they're left sitting on the back seat, with the fleur-de-lis crested Quebec flag firmly on top, lest someone see them). But, you say, isn't it arrogant for someone who has been there for just over a week to show up and make such a visible political statement about Quebec? Yes, yes it is. But it's all in good fun.

And school itself? Well that's been just fine-- and though I'm in a terribly difficult class, by the end of it I should be completement fluent in written and oral french*. The students, from all over Canada (with a few from the US and Mexico), are interesting, and they're almost all Arts students (which makes them even more interesting-- since the average Arts student is a lot more engaging than the average Science student). Lots of people have no idea what SFU is ("St. Francis?"), and a few have a hauty attitude towards languages ("You mean you only speak English?"), but for the most part, it's been grand so far.

And, with countless outdoor adventures (the Maurice region is renowned for all things outdoor), political/journalism adventures (I'm going to see if the local paper accepts any of my french writing... once it gets to a decent level), community adventures with les agées (yep, one of the activities, which should be enlightening, is spending time in the local seniors residence), canoeing adventures (no more tipping), and random adventures, it's only going to get better!




*assuming that I do work (which I will, I think)










Saturday, May 06, 2006

Days 4-10, through Saskatchewan, Manitoba, Ontario, and Quebec...

(wow, the past 7 days have been uber eventful... I've finally settled down in an artsy Montréal cafe on Avenue St. Laurent, and can at long last update this journal!)

Days 4-10

Day 4 (April 30): 1000km down (2600km overall)
So after recovering, relaxing, and partying in Calgary for a few days, we were ready to head out. We left Theresa's Aunt Shelly's place (Aunt Shelly is pictured here in the orange shirt, hanging out with us on the Red Mile-- yep, she's damn cool). Driving east along the Trans Canada in the drizzly weather, we went through Medicine Hat-- one of the many prairie towns that I knew only through hockey (Trevor Linden played junior hockey for the Medicine Hat Tigers). The local youth at the gas station said there was little to do, except for a plethora of hiking and mountain biking trails (yes, flat ones-- we're in the prairies) and the world's tallest tippee. Driving on through the prairies spawned countless driving conversations on topics from the mundane to the profound, from naming the world's countries and capitals to life, religion, the global pharmaceutical industry, the nature of altruism, and the potentially cliched 'meaning of life' (why, to give life meaning, of course!). Every so often, we'd take a photostop (both Adham and me, but especially Adham, are into photography-- I'll be posting my artistic SLR photos later, these ones were taken with Adham's digital), and at one point, I pulled over and we spent over half an hour shooting an abandonned Saskatchewan farm (certainly not a rare find), complete with a ski-doo, grain elevator, and more! The first major Saskatchewan town we came to was Swift Current, a farming mecca by our measure (every farming equipment company you can imagine-- John Deere, Cat, and way more-- had acres of tractors lining the sides of the Trans Canada as we entered town. Once there, we parked "downtown", and strolled around. We hadn't yet met our 'timmy ho's' quota (at least one Tim Hortons/province, usually far more) for Saskatchewan, so we swung by there for the standard toasted everything bagel and coffee (by that point, I had tried my first double-double-- quite outstanding, really-- which, did you know, is in the Canada Oxford Dictionary-- that's Canadiana). Now, a little piece of advice for you city guys, it seems that girls from small towns dream of the city and everything associated with it. Case in point: Jaime, a server at the Swift Current Tim Hortons, had, by Theresa's impartial account, a huge crush on both Adham and I (surely not the only Tim Hortons gal along the way), and went out of her way to ignore customers and talk to us about anything and everything (it also seems that in small towns, hollywood films play an integral role in the perception of cities-- she named several cities, including Vancouver and Berlin, that she wanted to visit because of movies set there). In any case, she was cute and very sweet-- we're planning on sending her a postcard from Montreal.

We kept driving through the prairies, racking up the kilometres, and stopped briefly that night in Regina-- the Saskatchewan capital-- at the provincial legislature, where we did some tripod night photography, chased (and nearly caught) a rabbit (Theresa's the only vegetarian), and-- with as much respect as I could muster-- mounted the queen (as you can tell, Adham had something going with her horse). After the Regina double-double, we continued our cruise-controlled driving of the Trans Canada (although the route was straight, the prairies had a few bumps in them-- it wasn't until Manitoba that it was completely flat on the Trans Canada). But, as the joke goes (3 different people said it to us along the way), the prairies are a place where, when your dog runs away, you can watch it go for days.

While I slept in the back, Adham and Theresa drove on, until the tank neared empty. Arriving in the small Saskatchewan town of Moosomin-- which had gas stations, none of which were open-- they pulled aside and we slept in the car for a couple hours until sunrise...


Day 5 (May 1): 400km down (3000km overall)
We woke up in the gas station parking lot in Moosomin, filled up the Trooper, and I drove on through the rainy weather-- not before exploring Moosomin a bit (throughout the trip, I would take random diversions to drive through small communities-- a good way to explore, and get lost), including an amazing old little community hospital. Past the Manitoba border we drove, through a town called 'Alexander' (complete with an 'Alexander' grain elevator, general store, and school), and stopped in Brandon (near where my Granny Alieta grew up).

There, while driving through the town of 45,000 on the main street, we drove by a random pancake breakfast which I spotted and Theresa enthusiatically agreed to join me to. Leaving a sleeping Adham in the car, we walked in to discover the launch of a $400,000 twelve-unit low income housing project funded by all three levels of government, called 'U-turn 3' (the third in a series).

The project had been initiated by the Westman 'Youth for Christ' group (churches and church groups, as I would discover, play a key role in building community in the prairies) in order to address the 'hidden homelessness' of Brandon, numbered at over 400 ('hidden homelessness' refers to people who migrate around town, sleeping on friends' couches for example). The event had drawn numerous media (see left side of photo) including the CBC, as well as the MP and MLA for Brandon who both spoke with a city councillor.

The project organizer told a story of a girl from Brandon who had been at risk (poor) several years before, but hadn't had the option of 'U-turn' low income housing. In the end, she ended up living on the streets of Vancouver's downtown eastside as a prostitute. All, it seems, is connected.

Theresa and I spoke to several people there, including Mike, a guy who had originally lived in Langley (where I was born, and lived until I was 13), whose dad had just ran for the leadership of the provincial Progressive Conservatives, and who himself was preparing to run for MLA. He also clarified the time for us (we weren't sure where daylight savings time came into effect), and offered a joke about Saskatchewan's lack of daylight savings time: "Really, who would want to spend another hour of daylight in Saskatchewan?").

As the last sentence of the event press release said, "We invite you to celebrate with us as we take one more step in achieving our dream of a community of Hope, where no young person goes hungry; relationally, physically, or spiritually." Well, amen to that.

We continued on toward Manitoba, through Portage la Prairie (refer to Tim Hortons at right for local geography), and onto Winnipeg. The first destination in Winnipeg was 'The Forks', a Granville Island-esque market at the junction of the Red and Assiniboine rivers. It was a great introduction to Winnipeg and the city's ethnic diversity (pretty much all mainstream cultural food was represented, plus more). Behind the market, the Red river stood tall-- according to merchants, it was "still quite high", having receded after significant flooding in early April, though nowhere near the height it had been during the 1997 floods which had destroyed so many homes (according to one merhant, tourists had come in 1997 to 'The Forks' to watch the water rise... kinda sadistic, if you ask me). Integral to experiencing Winnipeg, and 'The Forks', was enjoying some fine Ukranian cuisine, which for me included borscht and perogies (mmm... given how much I like the food, it's hard to believe I'm only 1/8 Ukranian). The Ukranian merchant noted, with a hint of displeasure, that the Phillipino population had recently overtaken the Ukranian population as Winnipeg's largest ethnic group.

From 'The Forks', we walked through a nice boutique hotel and lounge (ha, not to stay in, but scouting it out for a place to catch the game that night-- it reminded me of Vancouver's Opus and Elixir combo), and caught a free bus into the downtown core (yes, Winnipeg's main buses are free-- certainly something Vancouverites would envy). Strolling downtown, we discovered a few things. One, most shops in Winnipeg are closed on Sunday and Monday-- which made for some disappointment that Monday. Another, Winnipeg has a very large heritage district, strolled by cobblestone and full of charmingly romantic older buildings (like Vancouver's Gastown, only like 6 times larger), which house a vibrant Winnipeg Arts community.

En route to our destination Winnipeg hostel which our trusty Canada guidebook had yielded, we drove through the central business core of Winnipeg, which itself was fairly unspectacular, aside from the law courts and a few elegant hotels.

After rejecting the first hostel (too expensive), we found a private room at the next one for the three of us at a reasonable $66 (3 beds), where we cooked dinner, chatted with fellow travellers (mostly Canadian, one British chap who we watched the Flames game with and introduced to shuffleboard: "Not as fun as I would have thought"). I think we scared some of the other hostellers with our Flames enthusiam (I had my shirt, and we were waving the car flag madly at key points in the game... which Calgary lost, necessitating a final seventh game to decide the first round series with Anaheim).

Day 6 (May 2): 700km down (3700km overall)

So we left our hostel (pictured at left) mid-morning, the next day, and drove past Winnipeg's growing 'burbs into the sun-laden horizon. Picking up gas in Ste. Anne, we also picked up Andre, a cute little old frenchman, originally from Montreal, who was on his way to Ottawa to paint a school for his uncle (a school superintendent). Apparently he had hitchhiked throughout Canada, and so was a fine guide along the way. He remarked several times on BC's absolute beauty (every year he gets there at least once), but noted that BC could also stand for 'Bring Cash'. Reflecting on his travels, Andre decried the death of small cities throughout Canada-- 'ghost towns' such as Hells Gate in BC or Schefferville in Northern Quebec (along the Labrador border)-- and suggested that the federal government needs to play a larger role in promoting and supporting small towns.

Around Hadeshville in eastern Manitoba came the first rocks of the Canadian shield, and from there into Ontario, the geography changed rapidly, from prairie fields to trees and muskeg marshland. We were in bear and moose territory now, and Andre made sure to warn us of the dangers of getting out of the Trooper if we encountered either (a girl had been maimed by a bear while her parents were taking pictures of a black bear in that area several years before).

As we drove on through northwestern Ontario on the Trans Canada, we entered the region where the lakes of Ontario begin. And WoW. I've never quite seen lakes like that. Around every corner is another spectacularly blue lake, with summer cabins and docks waiting to be dived off, and boats waiting to be taken out fishing. Past Kenora we drove, which marks the northernmost point of 'Lake of the Woods', and where the population quadruples in the summer with fisherman from the US (apparently '1000 Island' dressing originated from there too, too bad-- a less-than-satisfying dressing in my humble opinion). Perhaps while canoeing in lakes such as these, Pierre Berton noted, commenting on the Canadian identity, "Canadians are those who know how to make love in a canoe."

We drove on, through Dryden, and on towards Thunder Bay, stopping on the way at Kakabeka falls-- a spectacular set of waterfalls with flat plateaus of smooth black rock, with water cascading hundreds of feet down. And about an hour before Thunder Bay, a sign marked the Atlantic watershed, the point beyond which all waterways flow into the Atlantic ocean. Along the way, we were hit by a wall of fog, instigated by Lake Superior, which stuck around until the afternoon the following day.

In Thunder Bay, we found the cheapest gas of the trip so far-- 100.6 cents/L. Pretty cheap, I know. There, we met up with Adham's buddy Ben, who generously let us stay at his place overnight. We went out to Boston Pizza, and enjoyed what the BPs in BC don't serve-- 32oz 'schooner' mugs of beer. Yes, and if you haven't caught on yet-- you will soon-- drinking good beer has also been a theme of the trip. Talking to Ben, Thunder Bay seems like about the perfect city-- there's great rock climbing, water sports (sailing, windsurfing, fishing), hockey (frozen public rinks on most streets in the winter), skiing, and more-- plus, houses are cheap! Sounds nearly perfect (if you can stand the cold in the winter).

Day 7 (May 3): 700km down (4300km overall)

Ben took us to finest breakfast cuisine in town-- the Scandanavian House-- where we feasted on Finnish pancakes and strawberries, eggs and sausages, and black coffee. It turns out that Thunder Bay has the largest Finnish population in the world for a city outside of Finland, which, given my interest in northern Europe (good social and environmental programs, and reasonably strong-- specialized-- economies, despite high tax rates), was pretty cool. After, we cruised the Finnish district, where I bought me a $5 Finnish flag (which I proceeded to fly outside the car window wherever we drove in town), went for a hike at Cascadia falls (another pretty spectacular cascading waterfall), and then went on to experience something truly Finnish (and truly Thunder Bay), the public sauna. And WoW. Do the Fins ever know how to do a good sauna-- and a hot one too-- the temperature for us got up to 70 degrees Celsius (yep, really hot). And, to quench the thirst, we took in some good Brahma Brazilian beer. Brahma in the sauna. Not only is it legal, but they sell beer when you rent the sauna. When we needed to cool down, it was either into the hot tub, or under the shower... before going back in the sauna.

From there, we dropped by the local fishing/hunting shop, where I picked up some

fishing tackle and an Ontario fishing license (for upcoming opportunities), then to the local ice cream shoppe that Ben had raved about (yep, it was a very good smooth swirl cone), took some photos of Lake Superior, and went back to Ben's place for a parting game of ladder golf (basically, you throw two golf balls attached together by a 1 foot piece of rope at a PVC ladder-- if it hooks around, you get points), which the team of Ben/Adham dominated (poor Alex/Theresa).

We got back on the road, departing Thunder Bay, but not before stopping at the Terry Fox statue

on the bluffs of Thunder Bay. As you may recall, Thunder Bay had been the community that Terry had been forced to stop his Marathon of Hope at, due to the progression of his cancer. It was pretty inspiring to stand there, and bear witness to the enormity of his accomplishment-- beyond the sheer physical accomplishment, the everlasting legacy of the Terry Fox Foundation and his annual run, which happens all over the world, raising money for cancer research. Terry, as an SFU student like Adham and I, had trained for his marathon of hope on many of the same roads and trails that I run at home in Port Moody.

After leaving the Terry Fox site, we took off east on the Trans Canada. Just as we accelerated, Adham decided to roll down the window to take a picture. As he did, our Calgary Flames window flag-- which we'd flown all the way from Calgary-- fell off, and onto the road. It was the most tense moment for me of the trip. My heart pounded. My nervous system entered 'fight or flight' mode. I knew we had to do something. Cars and trucks were pounding the pavement down the highway, preparing to pancake the poor flames flag and car mount. So we stopped. And Adham got out. And ran. And ran. Waving off trucks and cars, he hoped that they'd avoid the flag. And he got it, all in one piece. I was so relieved. But it still took nearly half an hour for my heart rate to come down. I mean, this was game day for game seven of Calgary's first round series, and I couldn't think of a worse omen.

We drove on, through the picturesque western Ontario landscape, marked by a vibrant red rock that I thought was only found in the Grand Canyon.

All the while, it's worth pointing out, Theresa did have to put up with two guys.

And wow. That must have been challenging. But she was a trooper.

So we drove on, increasingly driven by a desire to find a Tim Hortons. We reached Marathon, a small town 5km off the Trans Canada, where, I was sure, there would be a Tim Hortons. But no. There wasn't. In fact, we had to settle for a Robin's Donuts, which, according to Adham, smelled a lot like poop (it did). What was kinda interesting about it was that it had an entire closed off smoking room that you had to be over 18 to enter-- some sort of city bylaw, I presumed. Talking to the Robin's donuts woman (definitely less cute than Tim Hortons'), it turns out that the new Robins owner was on city council, and that the smoking room would be shut down shortly to make for a 100% smoke free restaurant.

Driving on from Marathon, there was a ski lift along side the Trans Canada (like right beside, at a truck stop), for a hill called 'Superior Slopes'. I bet that's the only lift beside the Trans Canada in all of Canada.

Along the way, we encountered some of the most spectacular scenary and wildlife of the trip, including moose, a bear, and a pretty spectacular sunset (that a digital camera just can't capture). With the deadline of the Flames game beginning at 10pm EST, we aimed for Sault Ste. Marie to watch the game (where Wayne Gretzky played junior hocky), but ended up stopping in Wawa (means 'goose' in Objibwai... hence several giant goose statues throughout town), which incidentally is the home town of Chris Simon, the Calgary Flames resident tough guy. So we took in the game at the Wawa Motor Inn, where, luckily, it was also wings night. Plus, I discovered an extraordinarily tasty dark beer-- Red Maple-- which presumably is sold only in Ontario (it has a subtle maple sirop aftertaste). There was also a 'Wawa girls' pinup calendar that I bought for Adham. He was pretty excited about it. Anyway, the night looked good. But then Calgary lost. Well, actually, they just didn't show up. And it was sad. Especially because we were waving our flag and were clearly the biggest Flames fans in that pub. Once they lost, I ran a 'losing lap' around the pub, then around the motel. Apparently a guy said something to Adham, to the tune of, you'd better leave. So we did, and left unbruised physically, though terribly distraught over the loss of the game. Adham drove though the foggy night, slow enough to avoid any moose on the Trans Canada (there were lots of warning signs).

Day 8 (May 4): 900km down (5200km overall)

Adham drove through to Sault Ste. Marie, at which point he woke me up (it was around 2:30am), I grabbed a double-double from the first Tim Hortons in 700km (since Thunder Bay), and drove on through the early morning. It was a long, tough drive, but we made it to the outskirts of Sudbury by 7am.

Sudbury, a town of 155,000 mostly blue-collar workers, is the largest town west until Winnipeg, and it is a town firmly rooted in industry. A meteor likely hit it millions of years ago leaving vast deposits of nickel and other metals, fuelling vast industry throughout the 19th and 20th centuries, and continuing up until now. While Sudbury was one of Canada's major environmental disasters, today it's a success story for recovery: over the past 30 years, over 3 million trees have been planted to recover the mined landscape and clean the air. Still, the smokestacks of industry, beautiful in their necessity, litter the barren landscape. It's a landscape so bleak, in fact, that Buzz Aldren used it in preparation for his Apollo mission to the moon in the 1960s. And yet, for a city that still seems so dirty and so poor, there was an intense beauty in the persevering landscape of Sudbury. Although I don't have any digital photos, I'll certainly post my SLR ones once developed. And they had the busiest Tim Hortons so far-- 18000 'Roll up the rim' winners (that's my measurement of busy-ness). It certainly ain't a Starbucks town. The irony of Sudbury, like much of Africa, is of a region rich in resources and yet vast in poverty-- though the poverty is combatted with an admirably indeterminable spirit.

As the quote that Theresa spotted in the Tim Hortons women's washroom read, "A good friend will come and bail you out of jail-- A true friend will be sitting beside you saying 'Man, we fucked up...'". I think that probably sums up Sudbury.

From there we drove on past the suburbs of Sudbury, through the distinctive white birch forests and marshland, and on to North Bay, an oddly significant town of 55,000 nested on Lake Nipissing (which connects with Georgian bay on Lake Huron). 'Pro-life' banners speckled the city, and churches were dominant along the streets, despite the abundance of downtown nightclubs. Adham was so impressed by the look of the local piercing studio, he nearly got his piercing there... but decided to hold off until Montreal.

We drove on to Algonquin Provincial Park, through the northern entrance, and stopped at 'Algonquin North', an outfitting company, to rent a canoe for the day (one of the hundred things to do in Canada before you die, according to a recent newspaper article in the Vancouver Province). Because we were only taking it out for a few hours, I talked the owner down to half price, and then we drove down to the northern-most lake. While Adham slept in the vibrant sun, Theresa and I set out to canoe around the lake for a few hours (some people go for several week canoeing treks). Theresa had never been canoeing, and we both wanted to canoe Algonquin, so it worked out well. I hooked up my fishing rod, and we set out, paddling against a strong westerly wind.

We paddled for nearly an hour along the coast of the lake, with the wind and waves building steadily. Although we'd talked about it, our balance still wasn't ideal (canoeing, like rowing, depends on paddlings being in sync with each other, and ensuring that they don't shift their weight). Anyway, unfortunately a wave knocked us partway (the shifting weight in the boat pushed it the rest of the way), making for a wet paddle/swim to shore with an overturned canoe. Still, Theresa was a trooper-- we'd discussed how to deal with an overturned canoe beforehand-- and most importantly she didn't panic. After, she was very optimistic about the whole experience (that's her, thumbs up, after flipping). It was the first time tipping for both of us (in my pretty extensive rowing/canoeing experience, I'd never flipped!).

From Algonquin, we drove onward to Ottawa, arriving around 8pm that night, and spent the rest of the evening cruising around the spectacular capital (neither Adham nor Theresa had been there), and kicking around a fair trade soccer ball on the parliament lawn as the clock struck midnight (how's that for a political show of defiance?). After having searched endlessly for a place to eat, only McDonalds was open after midnight in Ottawa (a total contrast with Montreal the following night).

And guess what-- the cheapest gas of the trip by far, at 93.6 cents/L, was in Ottawa. Slightly ironic that the town which houses the nation's politicians also has the cheapest gas eh?

We had dropped by a centrally located hostel earlier, which offered a private apartment for $75/night, which I felt was pretty expensive. So, I had called around, and found a single motel room for $49/night. After getting lost for nearly an hour trying to find it, we arrived, and I walked into the 'Prestige Inn' to find out that, no, there weren't any $49 rooms available that didn't stink of smoke, and that instead, we'd have to pay $59. Which was still $16 better than the hostel. So, I took Adham and Theresa in, and I don't think they were too impressed. (By the way, I neglected to mention that there were only 3 people officially staying in the three-floor Prestige Inn, that the walls were lined with 70's porn-style mirrors on each wall, that homeless people were walking through the building freely, that the manager was a complete con-artist that I argued with for 15 minutes, and that there were two cop cars parked out front). Anyway, this set off a heated argument between Adham and I about how stupid it had been to look for another place after the hostel. Alas, it was the first major argument in our 8 days in close-quarters which ain't too bad, and after some harsh words each way, we resolved it, and understand each other better for it. And in the end, the room wasn't that bad-- nice shower and jacuzzi, comfy bed, and a TV. (note for future: hotels that cost $49/night and are called 'Prestige Inn' probably are scary drug rings)

Day 9 (May 5): 300km down (5500km overall-- $730 in gas from Vancouver to Montreal)

We woke up late, having relied on an alarm clock set to PST (which Adham fortunately picked up on), and rushed off to catch Question Period in Parliament at 11am. Many MPs were absent, including the PM, and the parliamentary secretaries ended up filling in for a number of the ministers. Coming several days after the first Conservative budget, there was lots of fuel for questions. Liberal and NDP critics focussed on the lack of an agricultural focus in the budget, the lack of money for Northern Canada and Aboriginal issues in the budget, and the cuts to Kyoto spending (the entire One Tonne Challenge was cancelled, which, while highly flawed, at least sought to address climate change through awareness). On most issues, the conservatives either pointed to spending to address social issues that (as the Liberal pointed out) was from last year's budget, or said that their decisions were necessitated by Liberal inaction for the past 13 years. Politics as usual, I suppose.

After, I listened in on some of the press scrums, and sat next to Christina Lawande (CBC reporter) as she interviewed Jack Layton. I left the grounds of Parliament, and strolled through Ottawa, and managed to walk right into the Ottawa CBC broadcast centre (like the Saddledome for the Flames game, the secret to getting into places is following someone with a pass, and then walking in with confidence). I sat in the green room for a while with a reporter, listening to Andre Boisclair (leader of the Parti Quebecois) respond to questions about Quebec gaining recognition at UNESCO, then strolled the 3rd floor building, before walking through the news room, and past reporters like Paul Hunter and James Cudmore. Yep, it was pretty cool.

Despite the Ottawa Senators playing that night, there weren't nearly as many hockey banners and car flags in Ottawa (although we sported a newly purchased one-- Adham had already hopped off the losing Calgary bandwagon). Somehow, one has the sense that there are issues of greater importance in Ottawa.

I walked through the National Photographic museum, met with Oxfam's ED briefly, chatted with some UNICEF fundraisers on the street (who didn't know who Carole Bellamy was), bought the french version of 'Suite Francaise' at Chapters, chatted with a guy on the street holding a sign 'Spare some change for a penis enlarger?', then met back up with Adham and Theresa.

We strolled through the (new) National War museum (pretty spectacular, and very informative-- needs a day to see it thoroughly), before driving onto Montreal along the scenic Ottawa river, taking our last border photo and last Tim Hortons ('toujours frais') photo as a group. The road trip, at least for this trio, was almost complete.

Arriving in Montreal around 9:30pm, we walked Ave's St. Laurent and St. Catherine, the two main party streets of Montreal (think glamour of Robson plus nightlife of Granville and Davie). Aside from being hopelessly distracted by the silhoette of a dancing naked women at the intersection of the two main streets (Montreal surely has the greatest concentration of sex shops and strip joints in the world-- ironic for such a catholic province), we didn't get too lost. After cruising the streets, riding the subway, and grabbing a cheap Italian dinner, we went into club 'Coco Bonzo' which Adham raved about from his time in Costa Rica. At $8 cover, and with cheap drinks, we had a good time-- although the music devolved from latin rap to rap and hiphop (so we left after a couple hours). Although we could've gone to an 'after-hours' nightclub (party until the sun rises), at $25 cover for 'Circus', we declined and strolled the streets until 4am (amazingly lots of places are still open at that time). Montreal, it seems, is the town that never sleeps.

Day 10 (May 6): 0km down (5500km overall)

After sleeping in until 2pm, I got up, then we drove the McGill campus (where we'd parked the car while we slept), then went to look for a hostel for Adham to stay in over the next week (he's hanging around until next Friday). Me, I've been reflecting, reading, and writing this update. It's nice to have a chance to reflect on the 'Odyssey' to this point-- although, only 10 days in, I'll be continuing to discover the enigma of 'Canada' for several months longer. After a hectic and adventure filled 10 days, I'll be settling in at Trois Rivieres for the next 5 weeks (starting Monday) in the french bursary program at the university there.

But just because I'm not moving around, doesn't mean that things won't be interesting...